Glassline Paper - First Experiment

I’ve found that there isn’t much info out there about people’s experiences with Glassline products, so I’ll start documenting my attempts - please feel free to leave comments with your notes or questions and maybe we can start a discussion. I have used the paper once, and here are my results.

To try it out, I ordered one of the assorted packs - I think it was about $40 for a pack of 15 5” square sheets. This included 5 colors with 3 different textures each.

Glassline Paper - Full Fuse

The Glassline paper product brochure is here. I followed the instructions - I kept the edge of the paper 1/4” away from the edge of the glass, I used a tiny dot of Elmer’s glue to keep the paper in place, and used bits of stringer to separate the bottom and top pieces of glass.

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To the right is my little sample pre-fuse. It’s really tiny - roughly about 1”x2”. I didn’t want to waste the paper or the glass if it didn’t turn out!

The bits of blue stringer are sandwiched between the glass, I could have also used clear and it wouldn’t show up in the final piece.

 
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And the final result! The colors really deepened, and the texture is still apparent (though that’s not as obvious in this picture of a tiny sample). The paper did appear to shrink a bit - most obvious in the skinny jellyfish legs. I’m not sure if the bigger pieces didn’t shrink or if it’s just not as obvious.

 

I love the idea of using this paper to add detail to future pieces, and I’ll definitely be experimenting with it more! I’ll keep you posted on how it goes.

Glass Grinding Guidelines

This is part of a series of posts about tips I've learned while working on my projects; hopefully they will be helpful to those just starting out.  These lists aren't meant to cover everything, and if you have additional tips, please share in the comments!

Last time, I talked about glass cutting; the next step after all your pieces are cut it the grinding.  This topic should be relevant whether your interest is in stained glass, fused glass, or just in using stained glass sheets in your mosaic projects.  

My Essential Glass Grinding Tools

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Of course, the number 1 essential tool here is a grinder.  I'm sure many grinders out there work great, so I'm not suggesting one over another, but the only grinder I've owned is my Gryphon Gryphette grinder, and it is great!  It's small, but I haven't found that it's too small for any of my projects, and it's perfect for my small workspace.

You can buy an optional face shield that will mount over the work area; I don't have it, but I always wear safety glasses.  In fact, I store them as shown in the picture; on top of the grinder - that way I never forget to put them on.  It's super important to wear them, as little shards can fly around, especially for certain textured glass, and especially when you have a new bit.  I like my eyes so I never grind without my safety glasses!

I clean out the water reservoir of my grinder every 4 or 5 projects.  It always amazes me the amount of glass dust that collects in there.

 

The grinder is the main tool you need, but it needs new bits sometimes.  I use these bits for my grinder, and they last a good long time.  You also need good old H2O to fill the water reservoir (you can see my old Nalgene bottle in the background here.  Our slop sink is in an inconveient spot, so I use it for my water needs while working.  And last, you need little bits of sponge to insert behind the grinder bit to keep everything wet while you're working.

So that's it for the tools; on to the grinding tips:

1.  Order Matters!

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My first tip is in the order of the pieces you choose to grind. You're always going to have to do some touching-up to make all of the individual pieces fit together well, but the main pieces of your design will need to have specific shapes in order for the panel to come out the way you want.  So, I always start with the "essential" pieces to grind first, and get those to look exactly how I want.  Then, I grind the ones that are part of the background - and if they don't fit perfectly in their spots, I can always remove a little here or there and it doesn't matter since it was just a background piece anyway.

For example, check out the piece to the right, which had just gone through the grinding stage when this photo was taken.  I ground the sun, boat, and frog first, then made the background yellow/orange, blue, and green fit around those main areas of the design.

 
Would it be faster to cut away or grind out that inner curve?

Would it be faster to cut away or grind out that inner curve?

2.  Minimize Grinding

This is probably more of a cutting tip, but one thing I find to really speed up how quickly I can make a project, as well as minimizing cost (grinder bits are pricey!), is to really make sure I've cut away as much glass as I can before I grind.  I want to make sure I only have to do a quick pass with the grinder to remove those sharp edges, and MAYBE do a little extra work on a tricky inner curve.  

But poking around on YouTube, I found videos that tell you not to even try cutting away the glass on an inner curve, and instead to grind out the whole area!  You'll go crazy, it will take forever, and your husband might threaten your life if you don't make that grinder noise stop!  (The last happens often enough to me even with my strategy to maximize cutting and minimize grinding...)  Take the time to get comfortable with glass scoring and breaking, trust me, it will be worth it!

 

 

3.  Change/Move Grinding Bit

Grinding bits wear out, but they do so slowly, so sometimes I don't notice that the area of the bit I'm working with is getting dull until it's doing nothing at all.  I usually put on a new bit so that the bottom part is the grinding surface, then slowly move it down the shaft as it gets dull.

4.  Work With Direction of Rotation

Grinding bits rotate counter-clockwise on the grinder (at least on mine, and google says this is how most of them work).  So, if I am pushing my piece to the left under the spinning bit (against the direction of spin), it will grind away more of the glass than if I push it to the right, with the direction of spin.  This is useful to know, because if you have a big chunk of glass to grind out, then going against the spin will have more of an effect than going with the spin.  And then do the opposite when you're mostly done but just want to take that final smoothing pass.

5. Perfection is the Last Step!

Last tip - as you are grinding each piece and fitting them together, don't worry if it's not perfect.  I'll do my first pass at grinding, and often still have a bunch of pieces that aren't fitting nicely.  Once I've given each piece one go at the grinder, I'll look over the whole thing and figure out where I still need to trim away some glass.  By waiting until the end, I find that I can make sure I'm trimming those background pieces and not the ones where the shapes are more critical.

Those are my top 5 grinding tips!  The final step after I finish grinding a piece is to see if it fits in the bigger glass puzzle; before I do that, I always dry it off so it doesn't get my pattern paper all wet and blotchy.  And I keep a Sharpie close by; if I end up needing to trim a piece down in multiple spots or don't want to lose my place, I'll mark the problem area with the Sharpie, do another grinding pass, and usually the water in the grinder is enough to clean up that Sharpie line.

My Top 4 Glass Cutting Tips

This is part of a series of posts about tips I've learned while working on my projects; hopefully they will be helpful to those just starting out.  These lists aren't meant to cover everything, and if you have additional tips, please share in the comments!

This topic should be relevant whether your interest is in stained glass, fused glass, or just in using stained glass sheets in your mosaic projects.  

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First, lets start out with the tools you need. It's not much!  I have found that I can do everything I need with the three tools in the picture.  One of these days, I will get one of those fancy schmancy glass saws (and don't worry, I will blog ALL about it!), but for now, I am doing everything the old-fashioned way.  I am using a grip cutter, running pliers, and breaker/grozer pliers.  Those three tools together will cost about $40.

Glass Cutting Tip 1:  A Waffle Grid is Essential

In addition to the tools, I also find that a waffle grid like that in the above picture is super-helpful for keeping glass shards <mostly> contained and to help avoid injuries.  I didn't have one at first, and find it to be useful for two reasons.  First, the shards fall into the grid, so you're not as likely to end up with them under your skin, on the floor, or underneath the glass you're scoring (and then scratching the bottom or worse, causing your glass to break).  

Second, a lot of times, you need to make a long straight score in a piece of glass.  If I can see through the glass, I line up where I need to make the cut over one of the lines in the waffle grid - giving me a line to follow.  

Glass Cutting Tip 2:  Take Your Time 

Go slow and don't try to do too much in one cut, unless it is a straight line.  This doesn't come naturally if you're impatient like me, so I've had to learn this lesson a few times.  If you're cutting any kind of curve, make sure that any one score isn't too complex.

My first "real" project - those half-circles I had to cut into the clear pieces were a pain!

My first "real" project - those half-circles I had to cut into the clear pieces were a pain!

This also goes back to your design-- don't make the same mistake I did and draw a first design that involves cutting half-circles into your glass!  It's definitely possible to be able to do that with the tools I have, but it's tough and requires a LOT of patience to slowly score more gradual curves and chip away the glass, a piece at a time - and wasn't easy for a beginner. That glass saw will open up lots of new possibilities, but I have found that with a combination of careful design and patient cutting, I have been able to accomplish almost everything I want.

Glass Cutting Tip 3:  Beware of Curves

Too many sharp inner curves in one piece of glass has been a recipe for disaster for me.  I always do a final pass over the drawing to look at each individual piece, after all the lines are in place to double check for anything that would be un-cuttable.  Even after doing this, I'll sometimes still find a hidden scary curve when cutting out the pattern.  This happened with my alien panel, I'd originally had the sides of the face drawn as one piece instead of two.  This one worked just as well with cutting each of them in half, so I did.

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To the right is a photo of the lemon rind from the lemonade panel - I wasn't sure if I'd be able to make this cut or not, and had a backup plan of splitting the rind into two pieces if needed.  But by slowly scoring and chipping away at the glass, it worked out!

(BTW, pay no attention to the red smudge in that pic; every project needs a little of my DNA in it to personalize it...)

 

Glass Cutting Tip 4:  Curves Part Deux

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Lastly, if you're cutting an inner curve that will end in a point, I find that it usually works better for me if I cut the curve first, while there's still some extra glass hanging out on the other side of the point.  This is hard to explain, so see the pic at the right.

 

I first started working on the inner curve, then removed the glass to the right of the point.  Scroll thru the pix below to see the order of my steps.

That's it for today - if I think of more essential cutting tips, I'll add another post.  If you've got anything to add, please share in the comments!

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My Top 3 Stained Glass Design Tips

I'm starting a series of posts about tips about how to make stained glass that I've learned while working on my projects; hopefully they will be helpful to those just starting out.  These lists aren't meant to cover everything, and if you have additional tips, please share in the comments!

Today's entry will focus on designing your piece - there are a few things you can do upfront while you're laying out your design, to make things easier in the cutting step to follow.

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Of course, you can always find a pattern in a design book, and I definitely recommend that as a way to get started - but I've always been more interested in creating my own designs.  For me, my first two pieces, done in a class, were from patterns, but my first 'real' panel was a stained glass transom for our house - so it needed to be a custom size and work in our house number.  

Tip 1:  Simplicity of Design

My number one tip is to keep it simple simple simple,  especially at first.  Think coloring book drawing for a small child simple!  The more details, the more pieces and the more complexity.  And the simpler the drawing, the easier it will be to spot those difficult or impossible to cut areas.

Tip 2:  Clip Art is Your Friend

For those that are artistically challenged, like me, here is my secret:  when I have an idea of something I want to create, my first stop is to look at free clip art images online.  I will look for one or two that I can resize and put together to fit my purposes.  This step usually involves printing and photocopying the images at different enlargements and putting them together.  Often I also need to simplify the pictures - removing details and softening lines to make it easier to turn into glass.

Then once I have the arrangement I want, next step is to decide how to turn it into pieces of glass and determine where the solder lines will fall.  This will be different for every image, but try to break up the picture in places where it makes sense.

Tip 3:  Background Lines are Important in your Glass Piece!

For the background of your piece,  consider where the solder lines will be and if they should be straight,  wavy, or organized in some way that will strengthen the design.  
 

Stained Glass Background Example 1

In the picture to the right, I have the lines radiating from Alyssa Alien's head for emphasis.  I did it that way to make her seem more powerful - and conveniently for me, those lines lined up with the best places to work around her antennae and planet :)
 

 

Stained Glass Background Example 2 - Sky and Water

Here's another example - in this one, I decided on wavy lines for most of the sky but straight lines radiating from top of the lighthouse.  In general, I tend to use wavy lines for sky, water, earth backgrounds.

 

Stained Glass Background Example 3 - Symmetry

Finally,  I wanted this circular piece to be totally symmetrical so I made sure the background solder lines would be in the exact same spot for each flower.  

I love symmetrical designs, and having the background also be symmetrical is pleasing to the eye!

 

So in summary -- keep things simple, look for free clip art, and make sure your background flows with the rest of the piece - those are my top 3 tips!  Not so hard at all :)

I'll add more posts about my design process later on - my next post will talk about turning a photograph into a stained glass panel.  For now though, do you have any tips or ideas to share?  Add them in the comments!